Anchorage to Seward on the Coastal Classic Alaska Train

The colourful train and photos of the magnificent scenery convinced me to sign up for an Alaska Train ride. I persuaded myself to pay up for the luxurious Goldstar Service in the Golden Dome coaches—a veritable five-star hotel on wheels! Alas, I was too late. Only low class was on offer, but it had a nice name, “Adventure Class.”

Since we were staying in Anchorage, I booked the available day trip to Seward, which is called the Coastal Classic Train. My dreams of luxury dashed, I was somewhat encouraged to learn that we’d have more space and access to our own dome car. In fact, I could even request seating in the dome car. We’d find out when we picked up our tickets.

The alarm went off at an hour so early even the sun was still pulling the covers over its head. I stumbled out of bed like a zombie who’d traded brains for coffee, clutching my ticket as if it were a golden passport to consciousness. Anchorage station was already humming — a mix of sleepy travellers, clinking luggage wheels, and the faint smell of adventure (or maybe just other people’s coffee).

Anchorage Depot

We got our tickets, but the car assignment and numbers were meaningless. I wandered outside and saw the Alaska train gleaming in the early morning light like a steel whale ready to swallow minnows.

Sometime after 6 am, we boarded and headed to our seats. In front of us was a cream-coloured wall with an old photo. To our left was a nice sized window. We’re facing south. In the middle of the car is a roped off staircase leading to the coveted dome experience.

We shuffled off a few minutes past the scheduled departure time. We declined the opportunity to sign up for breakfast in the Adventure Class dining car. Then a young woman (at my age, they’re all young), came by with a black dog, which patrolled the train in its own uniform, and removed the chain, which blocked entry to the views aloft.

Quickly (compared to my age group), we mounted the stairs and were treated to a fantastic seat with a view of tall trees whizzing by at the amazing speed of 25 mph—that’s a 4-hour journey to traverse 107 miles from Anchorage to Seward. Soon others arrived and parked in various slots. It turns out, the best views are on the opposite side of the car—the right side as you face south.

Dome Car view

One feature of the dome car is a set of three windows in the front, which allow you to see the front of the train just above the carriages where the posh dine. One after another, a stream of people headed to the front, braced their arms on the moulding and took mesmerizing videos and stills of stunning Alaskan landscapes through mud-stained windows. After a while, an official announced we were limited to 20-minutes of dirty views. No worries. The dome car was never full.

Relegated to the subterranean sections, we found large empty seats, with footrests and large clean windows on the scenic side of our route. IMAX at last. And so, we soaked up the beauty of snow-topped mountains, silvery streams, and glassy lakes reflecting the beauty like ornate mirrors. There were remote villages with planes instead of cars and fascinating views of our train chugging along around winding S-curves. The wildlife was of the feathered kind with a bit of excitement when we saw bald eagles in the distance.

Slow-going curves

Vivid Reflections

We arrived on time in Seward and set about finding a lunch spot. We placed our orders for over-priced tourist chow, which we ate at a slow pace given the 5 hours until boarding our return. Amidst mizzling rain, we investigated the marina and coastal walk, whilst I stopped too often to capture a grey scene. At some point we decided a latte would be great. Alas, the cafes close in early to midafternoon. Anyway, we trudged up a hill to Safeway and were surprised to see they had a Starbucks! We could sit down too. But no one else could as there were only two chairs. Anyway, we had a nice view of a pallet, tasty muffins, and a satisfying hot drink.

Seal - Seward

Fishing

Salmon behind the fishers

Welcome to Seward

Gradually the rain increased as we arrived at the rustic train depot. Inside was full but we managed to find cover over a wooden bench. There were more open seats for the return journey. My wife declined the Goldstar treatment, but we did get roomy seats with a nice picture window for our 4-hour return to Anchorage. On the return, many fell asleep. I did enjoy some views in the small open area of the rear carriage.